1. Dear Lena, I'm so happy to be able to introduce you in our Female Founder Stories! Could you briefly introduce yourself to our readers?
I'm Lena Kieser, a master gem setter – and to be honest: I love anything that sparkles! My heart beats for luxurious, one-of-a-kind pieces where gemstones aren't just set, but truly put in the spotlight. I'm especially fond of diamonds in beveled settings – they're meant to really shine.
With great precision, sensitivity, and passion, I create unique pieces that are not only elegant but also emotionally resonant. For me, jewelry is not merely an accessory, but a small expression of personality. And of course, I collaborate with Dear Darling.
2. How did you become a gemstone setter? Was it always your dream or did it develop over time?
I originally wanted to train as a goldsmith – simply to give my creativity a practical expression. But when I had a job interview at a company, they suddenly said: "Unfortunately, we are not currently training goldsmiths – but we do have gem setters."
And to be quite honest? I had absolutely no idea what it was – and I was a little embarrassed to admit it at the time. Then I was allowed a peek into the workshop – and there it was: this nail file, covered in tiny diamonds that glittered like crazy in the light. At that moment, I didn't yet know exactly what one did with it – but I knew: That's what I want to do!
This love at first sight never faded. I began my apprenticeship, immersed myself deeper and deeper in the world of gem setting – and eventually even earned my master craftsman's title. My masterpiece – a yellow gold turtle set with brilliant-cut diamonds and specially commissioned peridots – is full of history, passion, and memories. And it constantly reminds me how a small "chance" blossomed into a great passion.
3. What fascinates you most about working with gemstones?
Gemstones hold a certain magic for me. Each one brings its own energy, color, and personality – but I'm particularly captivated by diamonds. That sparkle, that vibrant glitter in all its facets… I can lose myself in them.
When I sit at my workbench setting diamonds, the world around me becomes completely still. It's almost like meditation – I'm completely in the moment, fully engaged in my work, every movement mindful and deliberate. I'm fascinated by how much precision and sensitivity are required to position each stone so that it sits securely yet appears weightless. And when I then look at the finished piece, how it sparkles in the light – then I know: this is exactly why I do it.
Lena Kieser & Lisa Zaiser (Founders of DEAR DARLING BERLIN)
4. What steps are necessary to set a piece of jewelry?
In fact, every order is different – depending on the stone, setting, material, or desired look. But there are certain steps that are almost always involved.
Preparation is key: I examine the piece of jewelry and measure the stones very precisely. I also check each individual stone for quality – for inclusions, small flaws, or other unusual features. Special care is required, especially with delicate or already slightly damaged stones, to ensure nothing goes wrong during setting.
Next, I prepare the setting for the stone – using milling cutters, drills, or special engravings, depending on the setting technique. Then comes my favorite moment: inserting and securing the stone – often with a technique called "cutting," where small grains are driven over the stone. When a diamond is then firmly in place and sparkles in the light… that's always a little highlight for me.
The piece of jewelry is then cleaned, refined, and polished – receiving its final touch. I find it particularly beautiful when I set several small diamonds so precisely that they appear to be one with the piece – as if they had always been there.
5. Are there any materials or barrel types that you particularly enjoy working with?
I love classic precious metals like yellow gold – for me, it has something warm, elegant, and timeless about it. And when diamonds are reflected in it, a beautiful contrast is created between the radiant white and the golden luster. I particularly enjoy working with beveled settings – and even more so with micro-beveled or micro-pavé settings. These setting techniques require absolute precision, a delicate touch, and a practiced eye for detail. It fascinates me how even the smallest diamonds can be set in such a way that they appear like a continuous band of sparkle – densely packed, securely set, and yet almost weightless.
What I don't like so much, however, is tantalum (a precious metal like gold or platinum). It's incredibly hard, really difficult to handle – and for me, it simply lacks luster, vibrancy. I know some people love it precisely for that – but to me, it feels… dead. It lacks the sparkle that I love so much.
6. Your profession as a gem setter is rather rare – what makes it so special and perhaps also challenging?
For me, the special thing about gemstone setting is the combination of meticulous craftsmanship, absolute concentration, and that unique, quiet beauty that emerges during the work. I work with a wide variety of gemstones – each one brings its own challenge and fascination. But diamonds, in particular, have captivated me: their sparkle, their fire, their radiance – I love setting them in a way that showcases them perfectly.
At the same time, setting is a profession where there is no room for error. One wrong move, too much pressure, or a moment of inattention—and a valuable stone can be damaged. It requires technical skill, a steady hand, and a great deal of patience. The physical aspect is also challenging: the long hours of sitting, working under a microscope, and constant concentration. Unfortunately, the profession itself has become very rare today—simply because hardly anyone is willing to undertake a 3.5-year apprenticeship. Instead, many prefer to take a few weekend courses or seminars and believe that's enough. Of course, you can learn something that way—but true skill, a deep understanding of the material, and the necessary confidence in setting are only developed with time, practice, and experience.
I find it a shame that this level of craftsmanship is often underestimated – yet so much responsibility and attention to detail goes into every stone that is set.
7. What skills or qualities should a good gem setter absolutely possess?
First and foremost, you need patience – a lot of patience. Many steps are repeated until they are truly mastered. You have to be prepared to practice constantly, to fail, and to learn from those failures. In addition, you need manual dexterity, technical understanding, and a keen feel for the material. Working under a microscope demands absolute concentration, a steady hand, and good eyesight – often for many hours at a time.
Anyone who wants to set gemstones, and especially diamonds, needs a true eye for detail. Every stone is different, each demanding respect, a delicate touch, and complete attention. But all of this—the technical proficiency, the right pressure, the confidence in one's own movements—only develops with years of experience. It's a path that takes time. And above all: a love for the craft. Because only when you work with dedication can the piece of jewelry truly shine with the stones.
8. What was your path to self-employment? What were your first steps?
Everything was actually ready: I had a great business consultancy on my side, the plans were in place, and the start of my self-employment was scheduled for July 2023. But then everything changed.
I was diagnosed with breast cancer at the end of April 2023. This diagnosis changed my life drastically – and of course my plans as well. I initially decided to continue working part-time as a freelancer to allow myself time for treatment and recovery.
But in the midst of chemotherapy, I realized: My love for my profession, my desire to work independently, and my passion for gemstone setting were too strong to postpone. So, in September 2023 – despite all the circumstances – I officially became self-employed.
This step was anything but easy. But it was exactly the right one. Because my craft gave me strength during that time, gave me focus, and showed me what my heart truly beats for. Today, I am very proud to have taken this path – with all its hurdles, doubts, and the deep trust in myself.
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Want to learn more about Lena and her amazing work as a gem setter? Get inspired here: @die_fasserin
